Days 24 - 29 - The Olive Oil Journey

I’m officially 7 days behind present day and have made a very tough decision:

I am combining the past 7 days into today's entry.

Some may be happy, I personally feel like I’m abandoning the idea of 50 days = 50 entries, but I promise I'll get back to these days in the future - they were very critical.

We'll call today the Thanksgiving Special

To my fellow American readers, Happy Thanksgiving! It will be tough to not watch football with the fam today.

I remember last year doing a 30 minute Thanksgiving Peloton ride and thinking I'll do that or a run every year before Thanksgiving. Yeah that's not happening instead I got some finger and thumb exercise from this keyboard.

If you're with family or friends today, show them you're favorite entry (hopefully today's!) and spread the word. We've been hovering around 150 readers (200 subs) for the past week.

Day 24

Bari, Italy --> Sciaccia, Sicily | November 17th 2021

I woke up, packed up (room was an absolute disaster [my fault ofc] so this was stressful), got out of the hotel and off to De Carlo - a family company operating since the 17th century. And if you've come across the book Extra Virginity, there is a section about this mill. Of course apple maps put me in the middle of the city and I quickly realize I needed to adjust. I routinely screw up the addresses here in Italy. Idk what it is.

More context I had a 12:05 flight to Milan (connecting to Palermo) and had to return the rental before 11:00. This had to be a super-efficient visit else I'd be stuck in Puglia.

30 minute visit - went to tasting room, mill which actually had an old school mill which I hadn't previously seen so I was happy about that. Sadly, only their il Classico 2022 Oil (an Italian blend) was available - I wanted to taste the Coratina, which is their crème de la creme. But their hot oil. SUPER spicy - I literally used their basil oil to lower the spiciness level in my mouth, to no avail.

I couldn’t film the bottling process as they were doing a private label -- confidential info -- but seemed to be a nice process

I also got a quick shot of Saverio (of course) De Carlo. But he imediatley drove away so I didn’t have a chance to say hi. No shot he knew any

After the brief visit I stopped for gas - first gas station in the GPS was a car wash RIP. I audibled to another and was able to fill up my tank for ([1] guess - answer at bottom).

Dropped off the car - connected with the services guys on Instagram because at this point why not, then I headed to security and off to Milano for the connecting flight.

In the airport I was taking a vid of a restaurants olive oil and they kicked me out - my first official media removal from a premises. I couldn’t even defend my case given they spoke no English. Whatever.

I get on the plane and the back 10 rows were completely filed, front 16 were pretty much empty so I sat in row 13 and got a solo row lol.

I land in Milan - grab some snacks and fly down to Palermo. Car rental retrieval was pretty simple and I endeed up in a Toyota Hybrid that drove well.

At this point it's Thursday night and my Friday morning is still unkown: I was waiting on a response from Frantoi Cutrera which was a 4 hour drive away from the airport. I decided to head in that direction.

I loved Castelvetrano Olives, so I jumped on the opportunity to stop at Castelvetrano on the way down.

I was starving but this was more of a local village not accustomed to tourists, so most restaurants on maps were either closed or didn't exist.

I asked fruit stand guy for a dinner rec - he pointed right, so I went right. I arrive into the empty restaurant with the 80 year old owner sitting in a chair uninterested in my presence. His son comes out and sits me down.

Question: What's the menu?

Answer: "I'm the menu"  

True authentic Sicilian.

And he said its pasta this or pasta that. I got pasta this (the "that" was better as it was a seafood spaghetti while I basically got penne tomato sauce and eggplant)

But then when I was done and full from all the bread, he comes over the top with round 2 (secondi). I had no idea there was that but I went for it (fried fish) and had a nice $20 dinner. Whatever. Authentic as fuck. But I was concerned with the fact that I had nowhere booked and an unknown Friday frankly during dinner which kept everything stressful. Probably could have been a little more present. I'm not perfect.

Sciacca seemed like a city with population and hotels - so I stop there, park in a super narrow area with a strategy of asking the locals of the best place to stay. I tried one bar, failed. Drove to another bar and on the way, it felt like driving through a legitimate course. Completely twisting and turning around rounded corners. It felt like real life Mario Kart. Like a permanently windy driveway, that’s what Mario kart is basically based off of - I think.

Ob the way, I pass a 3 star hotel

Lobby was open and I ask for price, she says 51.5. I just walk out assuming the town is full of hotels.

I go to the intended bar a 3 minute walk away, who say there are two open hotels, one left and one right (51.5 one). I walk over to the left one which looked very closed and 0 reception, so I panic walk to the 51.5 one and THE WOMAN LOCKED THE HOTEL AND WAS ABOUT TO DRIVE AWAY.

Thankfully my English begging got her to reopen the lobby and check me in. Phew.

More notes I took

• Super cheap mini bar stuf which is awesome lol.

• I had to memorize the wifi lmao.

• My computer is falling apart

Fast Forward to 11:15 Frantoi cutrera says yes I could come at 10am.

Holy sht I guess I';m going to cutrera - 3 hour drive. Alarm set for 6:40am.

Note most of the above was already written, the next ccouple days are going to be more a rapid-fire approach:

Days 25 – 29 were written in 45 minutes…just saying. It’s 9am here and 3am in the US. Extravirginguy unfiltered. It felt like when I used to have those Edmodos for my English class (7th and 8th grade Ms. Izzo ppl – you know who you are) due and I waited until 10 minutes before to write them.

Enjoy.

Day 25

The drive to Cutrera (My first view of Sicily in daylight) was gorgeous. Unfortunately it was 7am and besides the college kids of the world there was no one to call, so 3 hours of music, beautiful views, and some voice memos later I arrive to the Cutrera location in Apple Maps (Waze had me in a similar spot too).

Of course it was incorrect - par for the course.

I drive into the driveway of some local farmer with 10 barking dogs surrounding the car (but fenced in). I was not getting out.

He points right, I drive right, then I see the sign for Cutrera and end up at the beautiful facility.

I have some good footage from the visit but won't go into much detail here. My biggest takeaway is they're innovating at scale, and I love that. I spent most of my time with Salvatore Cutrera's son and got to sit down with him at the end for an awesome brief interview (to be released at a later date). They were great people.

Their oil tasted great, and after 3 hours I head out to a recommended lunch spot.

I arrive and it's closed, but the view was so nice and there was a town in the periphery (right word?). Thankfully a local stood next to me and directed me towards that town.

Lunch was amazing - in some old school sicilian place that of course featured Cutrera Olive Oil. Then as I walk out I see a barber, and I knew my beard and hair needed to get cleaned up.

A mistranslation of instruction led to a full haircut - but at least it looked good.

I leave and start driving back north as there weren't any other farms in the area.

Long story short I stay at a BnB 10 minutes from Palma di Montechiaro (apparently a mob town I learned last night 11/23) - grabbed a dinner (Pizza - of course) by the water after being recommended by the city locals to not eat in the city (nothing open).

I go back, write some, and go to sleep.

Day 26

I'm really running short on time, I wish I could be writing more…

And remember, I arrived at the BNB (bed and breakfast) late at night - I had no idea what the view would be. I wake up and see the sun over the ocean  - which yes looked pretty but I knew the other side would be insane.

I put some time into scheduling visits for the next couple days and after head outside and try to catch a view of the other side which was blocked by a cliff.

Adventerous Jack wanted to climb to the top of the cliff.  After finding natural clay (yes like the clay they give in art class was on the ground, but not smelly) and an hour of climbing and finding the proper pathI'm at the top of the cliff (though I feared snakes which I later learn are hibernating at this time).

It was majestic and so worth the hike.

First visit to Mandranova - smaller but clean and high attention to detail as well. Enjoyed the oil and got a quick walkaround of the Agriturismo - which I frankly would have loved to stay in if it were the middle of July. Was awesome.

I leave and stop at a sidewalk ceramic place, bought nothing, headed up back to Castelvetrano but had a couple hours to kill.

I go to a neighboring town of Partanna, get a quick sandwich (guy who gave me directions basically got a free slice on my dollar…).

I still had more time and stopped in what looked like a Billiards place and end up watching Italian Billiards with 10 other guys around my grandfather's age. 0 English of course, but I was so relaxed in there.

Visit to Centonze Olive Oil and again had a great time with Nino. And I got some nice footage. 

Now I knew where I had to be Sunday but unsure of where I should stay. Given the past 2 nights of literally 0 social time, I on the fly decide to send Palermo and booked a hostel.

Long story short I drive through an open market and many people asking ("hashish hashish" or "Un Euro") to the hostel which looked to be in that area.

But I already paid, so I stayed there anyway - and I met some awesome people.

Day 27

We go out in Palermo to whatever that main area is called with 100s of people and I get back at 4am, wake up at 8am, and head to Manfredi Barbera for a visit.

Huge company, great conversation, homecooked lunch, pictures, and a signed book later I drive up what seemed to be a mountain road to an AMAZING view.

More fast forwarding I stop for some more pictures and head back to Palermo.

Rained all afternoon as I napped and eventually grabbed some dinner in town through the rain, write, then go to sleep.

Day 28

Palermo --> Milan --> Torino

Another 6:30 wakeup as I had a 9:25 flight to Milan.

I drop off the car with no penalty (phew! No joke).

Arrive at the terminal with 30 minutes to spare, board the plane and head to Milan.

I decide to rent a car which ended up being way more expensive than the previous rentals, but whatever.

I had to be in Badalucco the next day and made the decision to hit Torino over Genoa (both on the way) as Torino was not going to be along the driving path on the way back.

Quick amazing stop in the original Eataly then I go to the main town.

I stay at a beautiful hostel and despite intentions to watch the world cup, there was a networking event in the hostel's main area with about 100 Italians my age, 90% women, and after the host pressured me into staying since they needed guys (not to be that guy but usually it's the other way around for these things I attend) I said alright I guess I'll grab some drinks.

4 hours later I go to sleep.

Day 29

I wake up, get breakfast, and stop at what seemed to be one of the biggest outdoor flea and food markets I've ever seen.

Bought some food and winter gear and drove to Badalucco, where'd I'd spend the next 24 hours.

For any Stanley Tucci CNN fans - watch the Liguria episode.

For some more context, I had about 4 parts of this trip booked on day 1: Flight to, flight from, first workaway, and Paolo at ROI.

We tour the mill and see the rest of the beautiful facilities his family owns (restaurant, museum, agriturismo).

The agriturismo was something else.

Steamroom, Sauna, cold bucket of water and a shower later we do an hour and chagne interview for the pod then head to 2 hour dinner in a neighboring town. Was such a great night.

I wake up in peace, have some breakfast (delivered to door - amazing), then got a ride on the concrete then dirt road to the top of the hilly grove. For the skiers out there, the steepness rivaled a snowbird diamond, Vermont double black.

We say our goodbyes and I drive 4 hours to Modena, Italy: the home of Balsamic. Pit stop at Ferrari Museum (no pun intended), quick dinner and drinks and sleep at the Airbnb.

Next few days are balsamic devoted - you're up to date. It's Day 30 and I wrote this in the Airbnb, I have to go to my museum tour at 10:45. I don't even have time to fix the typos. Just accept them and happy thanksgiving to you all.

No Olive Oil Takeaway today.

Go [New York] Giants.

Much Love!

-Jack

Thank you for reading and welcome to the blog! I'm traveling through Europe on a quest to find great Olive Oil.

[1] $66 for gas, total rental + gas + parking fees for 4 days = $140, I think that’s pretty good?